ClimbingLife Guides: September 2013

Finley helping out with the pre-expedition packing.

Eli staying warm and dry in his new head to toe Rab mountain gear that we'll be profiling in more detail for the winter.

Thanks as always to our sponsors: Rab and Upslope.

Skinning above camp on the glacier on our first afternoon.

Jim enjoying the sweet corn and warm afternoon conditions above our glacier runway and campsite.

Sliding downhill to basecamp from our first run.

Our second day's objectives on the cornice ridge where we found amazing deep and cold snow on multiple runs.

Putting in a trail along the lateral moraine to the base of the cornice ridge where cold smoke awaits.

Dave, Jim, and Nate soaking up sun while prepping for another cold smoke run.

One of many up tracks above the glacier.

Dave on the way to one of the many "summits" reached on this trip

Jim, Nate, and Dave just below the summit of Aloha peak.

Jim on the initial descent from Aloha.

Sweet snow on this almost 3k descent off Aloha.

Back at the base of Aloha with a lifetime's worth of skiing in sight.

Jim enjoying a tasty reindeer sausage burrito.

Cold nights and a warm cook tent made for true AK conditions

Eli sporting the new "alpine bib" for keeping those expensive down layers clean.

The team reaching a col high above the glacier after a 600' step kicking climb.

Near the top of the peak with Aloha Peak and our tracks from the day before across the valley.

Steep track setting above amazing AK terrain.

Eli and Dave taking a break before the big descent back to camp.

Sweet snow on this wide open slope.

Downhill doesn't get much better!

Jim laying down some sweet tracks on these deep snow slopes.

Nate pulling out of a high speed turn.

Some of our descent next to this large cliff on another unnamed peak above the glacier.

A few last laps on the "camp milk runs" before packing up and heading home.

Descending from near the summit of Aloha Peak, one of the highlights of this trip.

Eli Helmuth returns to Ecuador this November to one of his favorite climbing arenas which possesses a unique and charming mountain culture situated at the center of the earth. A few climbers have thus far joined this trip and we're accepting applications for other individuals or couples seeking adventure on a climbing and cultural vacation to the equator.

Trip details: http://guide.climbinglife.com/index.php/expeditions/ecuador

After studying a friend's blog from their recent climbing trip to Peru, I better understood better some of the differences between most private trips and our professionally managed adventures.

Cotopaxi volcano (19,347')

1. Where they stressed over securing lodging and endured dangerous and unpredictable transport from the airport to their dingy hotel; We assure hotel pick-up by our knowledgeable guides in modern and safe transport to a comfortable and healthy hotel that we've used for more than a decade.

2. Where their time was spent gathering supplies, dealing with language barriers and trying to find gear that they didn't know to bring; Our climbers maximize their climbing time and rest between while avoiding all the hassles of trying to shop in a challenging environment.

3. While they had a good adventure trying to get up their chosen peaks; Our highly trained and experienced local staff are the best in country and knowledgeable of the current conditions on all the mountains and how these affect risk management and difficulty, potentially choosing different routes/peaks when necessary to better ensure safety and summit success.

4. Where they endured sickness and ill health due to poor restaurant and food choices plus a lack of specific medical training; Our staff take us to the best eating establishments and with decades of expedition leadership and medical training, we can advise on whether or not to self-medicate, how/what, and other health maintenance techniques in foreign countries including connections with the best local doctors and hospitals.

5. Where their glacier travel techniques, anchoring, route finding and avalanche assessment resulted in very poor risk management (not sure they realize this); Our IFMGA licensed guides with decades of experience provide the highest degree of risk management and service to our guests.

We are connoisseurs, locals, and lovers of the Andean cultures and so we appreciate the opportunity to share our knowledge and understanding of the Ecuadorian, Peruvian, and Bolivian Andes (plus Patagonia, etc) with our expedition teammates.

Acclimatizing hike above treeline (14,500') nearby Quito, Ecuador.

When you add it all up, the minimal extra investment of joining one of our scheduled adventures vs. putting together your own climbing trip to these areas should make it an easy decision to explore the Andes with our professional staff. We will always do our best to make sure that your climbing vacation exceeds your expectations and that you have the time and energy to achieve your climbing goals.

Alejo Lazzatti finding the way up an untracked west face of Antisana.

A large crevasse edge showing a volcanic ash deposit high on Antisana Volcano.

Volcano Rucu Pichincha reaches above the clouds to its lofty 15,250' rocky summit.

El caballo venga, el caballo se va, por la sierra.

Paramo Grass on the flanks of Pichincha Volcano.

View of downtown and old town Quito from the aerial tram (telepherico) on Rucu Pichincha.

Old Town Quito, World Heritage Site and largest intact pre-colonial city in South America.

Paramo fauna.

The last 50 meters of climbing on Rucu Pichincha are exposed and make for a stimulating 3rd class ascent to a 15,000+ summit within 24hrs of arriving in South America.

The steep volcanic landscape around Rucu Pichincha.

Basecamp at Antisana.

View from Basecamp of the west face of Antisana volcano.

Sangay volcano erupting in the early morning hours approx. 100 miles towards the southeast of Antisana.

Eli taking an early morning break on an ascent of Antisana.

Alejo finding the way through a heavily crevassed section of the route on Antisana.

Alejo on the summit plateau of the seldom climbed Antisana volcano, fourth highest in Ecuador.

Views of the north face of Cotopaxi volcano viewed from Antisana basecamp.

Antisana's north summit, west face as viewed from nearby basecamp.
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Alejo and Eli moving gear up to a high camp on the Antisana Glacier.

Heading back to Quito after another successful summit of Antisana.

Close-up of the climbing route on Cotopaxi.

High up Cotopaxi in fresh snow conditions, not uncommon in this wet region of Ecuador and one of the few places we regularly wear gaitors in the tropics.

Cold conditions on the summit of Cotopaxi greet Grant Phelps, Josh Krinsky and Alejo just after sunrise.

Looking down to the summit crater on Cotopaxi.

Steep terrain below the summit of Cotopaxi.

Grant Phelps on a cold descent from the summit of Cotopaxi.

Eli enjoying the amenities at our 12,300' basecamp for an upcoming ascent of Cotopaxi.

The Yanasacha Headwall on Cotopaxi is the wide cliff band below the summit. The climbing route can be seen threading up the middle center then traversing to the far right.