Tuesday, September 3, 2013

Ecuador Alpine Adventures 2013

Eli Helmuth returns to Ecuador this November to one of his favorite climbing arenas which possesses a unique and charming mountain culture situated at the center of the earth.  A few climbers have thus far joined this trip and we're accepting applications for other individuals or couples seeking adventure on a climbing and cultural vacation to the equator.

Trip details:  http://guide.climbinglife.com/index.php/expeditions/ecuador

After studying a friend's blog from their recent climbing trip to Peru, I better understood better some of the differences between most private trips and our professionally managed adventures.

Cotopaxi volcano (19,347')
1.  Where they stressed over securing lodging and endured dangerous and unpredictable transport from the airport to their dingy hotel; We assure hotel pick-up by our knowledgeable guides in modern and safe transport to a comfortable and healthy hotel that we've used for more than a decade.
2. Where their time was spent gathering supplies, dealing with language barriers and trying to find gear that they didn't know to bring; Our climbers maximize their climbing time and rest between while avoiding all the hassles of trying to shop in a challenging environment.
3.  While they had a good adventure trying to get up their chosen peaks;  Our highly trained and experienced local staff are the best in country and knowledgeable of the current conditions on all the mountains and how these affect risk management and difficulty, potentially choosing different routes/peaks when necessary to better ensure safety and summit success.  
4.  Where they endured sickness and ill health due to poor restaurant and food choices plus a lack of specific medical training; Our staff take us to the best eating establishments and with decades of expedition leadership and medical training, we can advise on whether or not to self-medicate, how/what, and other health maintenance techniques in foreign countries including connections with the best local doctors and hospitals.
5.  Where their glacier travel techniques, anchoring, route finding and avalanche assessment resulted in very poor risk management (not sure they realize this);  Our IFMGA licensed guides with decades of experience provide the highest degree of risk management and service to our guests.

We are connoisseurs, locals, and lovers of the Andean cultures and so we appreciate the opportunity to share our knowledge and understanding of the Ecuadorian, Peruvian, and Bolivian Andes (plus Patagonia, etc) with our expedition teammates.

Acclimatizing hike above treeline (14,500') nearby Quito, Ecuador.
When you add it all up,  the minimal extra investment of joining one of our scheduled adventures vs. putting together your own climbing trip to these areas should make it an easy decision to explore the Andes with our professional staff.  We will always do our best to make sure that your climbing vacation exceeds your expectations and that you have the time and energy to achieve your climbing goals.
Alejo Lazzatti finding the way up an untracked west face of Antisana.
A large crevasse edge showing a volcanic ash deposit high on Antisana Volcano.



Volcano Rucu Pichincha reaches above the clouds to its lofty 15,250' rocky summit.

El caballo venga, el caballo se va, por la sierra.
Paramo Grass on the flanks of Pichincha Volcano.
View of downtown and old town Quito from the aerial tram (telepherico) on Rucu Pichincha.
Old Town Quito, World Heritage Site and largest intact pre-colonial city in South America.
Paramo fauna.


The last 50 meters of climbing on Rucu Pichincha are exposed and make for a stimulating 3rd class ascent to a 15,000+ summit within 24hrs of arriving in South America.
The steep volcanic landscape around Rucu Pichincha.

Basecamp at Antisana.
View from Basecamp of the west face of Antisana volcano.
Sangay volcano erupting in the early morning hours approx. 100 miles towards the southeast of Antisana.
Eli taking an early morning break on an ascent of Antisana.
Alejo finding the way through a heavily crevassed section of the route on Antisana.
Alejo on the summit plateau of the seldom climbed Antisana volcano, fourth highest in Ecuador.
Views of the north face of Cotopaxi volcano viewed from Antisana basecamp.
Antisana's north summit, west face as viewed from nearby basecamp.
...
Alejo and Eli moving gear up to a high camp on the Antisana Glacier.
Heading back to Quito after another successful summit of Antisana.
Close-up of the climbing route on Cotopaxi.

High up Cotopaxi in fresh snow conditions, not uncommon in this wet region of Ecuador and one of the few places we regularly wear gaitors in the tropics.

Cold conditions on the summit of Cotopaxi greet Grant Phelps, Josh Krinsky and Alejo just after sunrise.

Looking down to the summit crater on Cotopaxi.

Steep terrain below the summit of Cotopaxi.

 Grant Phelps on a cold descent from the summit of Cotopaxi.



Eli enjoying the amenities at our 12,300' basecamp for an upcoming ascent of Cotopaxi.

The Yanasacha Headwall on Cotopaxi is the wide cliff band below the summit.  The climbing route can be seen threading up the middle center then traversing to the far right.

Highcamp on Antisana.

On the summit of Antisana with Eli, Steve and Alejo.

Eli in the middle of the FA of Fisura MurciƩlago (6c+) at the Zoologico Vertical in Banos.
Joanne Helmuth enjoying the smooth basalt of the Zoologico Vertical.

Afternoon storm nearby Cotopaxi.

Descending from Cotopaxi after another successful summit.

Friday, July 5, 2013

Peru Cordillera Blanca May-June 2013


Yanapaccha (17,909') shines during a brief spell of sunshine on an overall cloud-covered week in the Cordillera Blanca.  Luckily our second week was pure sunshine to balance out our time in these glorious mountains.


Map of Peru with Santa Cruz peak highlighted in red- we were a few miles south of this peak in the Llanganuco valley for our first week in the Cordillera Range.


Basecamp accessible by burros below Pisco and the magnificent south faces of Huandoy.
One of our porter's climbing gear.  We supplied him with a new harness and rope for safer climbing while on our two mountain routes.

Looking west down the lower Llanganuco Valley with its dramatic 700m vertical cliffs framing the way to the Cordillera Negra and eventually the Pacific.


Daniel Vargas
Joel Vargas



Our Huaraz-based staff at high camp on Vallunaraju.


Dave and Art enjoying Haute Cuisine at our 5000m high camp.




Joaquin checking out the new Rab Latok Mountain Tent at the Vallunaraju high camp.


Art and Dave roping-up for a practice run on the Vallunaraju Glacier.


Dave above 5,000m on the glacier of Vallunaraju.


Descending the glacier polished granite below the glacier entrance on Vallunaraju.


High camp on Pisco with Yanapaccha peak behind.
Eli descending from Pisco high camp on the moraine of the south Huandoy Glacier.


Pisco catches some sunshine the day after our whiteout summit ascent.




Descending from the summit ridge of Vallunaraju.


More descent of the summit ridge of Vallunaraju.


Eli enjoying the sunrise on the glaciated flanks of Vallunaraju.


Sunrise over the Cordillera Blanca while ascending Vallunaraju.



Eli, Dave, and Art on the summit of Pisco in a whiteout.


The three musketeers enjoying sunshine on the summit of Vallunaraju.


(L-R) Daniel, David, Joaquin, Art, Eli and Joel at Olaza's Hostel in Huaraz after two successful weeks in the Cordillera Blanca of Peru.

Wednesday, May 15, 2013

Bolivia Huayna Potosi with Steve

Stevie K., Eli Helmuth, and Alejo Lazzatti spent two weeks enjoying the cuisine of La Paz and the nearby mountain of Huayna Potosi (19,973') in November of 2013.  A week in and around town spent acclimatizing and a week on the mountain brought us to 19,550' before difficult conditions and weather brought us to a stop.  Overall it was a very successful trip that we all enjoyed immensely and so we're returning to the Cordillera Real of Bolivia in October of 2013 to try some different summits in this spectacular range that overlooks the immense Lake Titicaca.

Our lodging at the relatively small but 5 star Casa Grande Suites in the Calacoto area of La Paz was sweet and the "apple a day keeps the doctor away" adage was encouraged inside each room.
Steve and Eli shopping for sweaters and pan flutes in the tourist district of La Paz.


Eli warming up at the base of a sport crag within walking distance of our hotel.


Sunset over the eastern end of La Paz with the foothills below Illimani showing a fresh coating of snow.
The miner's graveyard across from the mines below Huayna Potosi.
The south face and summit in the right background of the very aesthetic Huayna Potosi (6088m).


Steve on the approach to high camp up the moraines of the Zongo Glacier on Huayna Potosi.

Sunday, April 7, 2013

Eldo w/ the Culnane's

Eli had the pleasure of climbing in Eldorado Canyon with Ed and Lance Culnane, a father and son team originally from Seattle, out in Colorado enjoying our dry desert climate and the famous climbing arena of Eldo on a warm mid-week day between snow storms.  

Please contact eli@climbinglife.com if you would like to arrange a day or more of private training or guided climbing in Eldorado, one of North America's top climbing venues.  More information available here.

 Ed on the upper half of one of our warm-up routes, the under appreciated first pitch of Across the River from Butt Hair (8) on the Wind Tower.
Ed belaying the first pitch of the infamous Bastille Crack (7).
Lance hand stemming the opposing cracks on the first pitch of the Bastille Crack.
Lance on the first pitch of the Bastille Crack.
Ed on an unnamed version 5.7 of The Bomb on the Wind Tower.
Father and Son on the summit of the Wind Tower after a 120m ascent of the West Overhang combined with the route Recon.
Lance pulling out of the second pitch chimney of The Bomb.